How to even out skin tone with foundation, concealer, blush
People tell me all the time I have great skin, which takes me by surprise because I think I have ruddy skin and dermatologists (the famous ones I get to meet as a beauty editor) always say the same thing. Somehow I have non-famous people convinced I have great skin. I chalk this up to regular use of Retin-A (my secret to anti-aging) and this bevy of tips I've accrued over the years.
Get skin in tip-top shape
The No. 1 rule I've learned as a beauty editor is the healthier your skin, the less makeup you'll require. If you cleanse, exfoliate and hydrate skin, you'll notice over time you don't need much concealer and very little foundation.
Get your skin in tip-top shape using the articles found in the skincare section of my Website.
Always slather on primer or moisturizer before foundation
If you apply a primer to your face first, your concealer and foundation will glide on smoothly instead of settling into your fine lines or wrinkles. Moisturizer works, too, just not as well. The trick is to apply foundation within a minute of the primer or moisturizer application -- you don't want it to soak into skin completely.
For more information on primers, see What is a Foundation Primer? And Do I Need it?, also check out my list of the best moisturizers.
Apply concealer BEFORE foundation
Once you apply concealer, you won't need as much foundation, according to makeup artist Bobbi Brown. Use concealer under eyes, along the nose and on the chin.
When you do apply concealer, pay special attention to the red areas around the nose. Dot concealer on these areas and then step back and look at how much brighter your face is (please also write to me and inform me of how genius I am).
Avoid full foundation coverage
Few people need to apply foundation all over the face -- a look I lovingly call "cake face" (read more about cake face here). Apply where you have uneven skin tone (usually along your nose). In wintertime, if your cheeks tend to get ruddy, apply there as well. For more sheer, natural coverage, consider a tinted moisturizer, which goes on much lighter than typical foundations.
Blend foundation correctly
If you do want more coverage, use a foundation brush (more on this below) and always start in the center of your face, blending outward. Pay special attention around the neck, otherwise people will see the line where you stopped, giving you a "mask face." (Full disclosure: I went around with mask face my entire sophomore year of high school).
Pick the proper color and formula for your skin type
Choose a color that's as close to your natural skin tone as possible. Never try to darken your complexion with foundation, it will look very obvious (use a bronzer for a sun-kissed look). But do consider two shades of foundation: One for summer when skin is naturally darker, and one for winter when skin is lighter. Mix them in the in-between months.
For oily skin, go for a matte foundation. Dry skin? Try a hydrating formula. One last tip: It's a myth to test foundation colors on the back of your hand. The best spot is actually along your jawline, according to Allure's Linda Wells, in her book, Confessions of a Beauty Editor.
Use a sponge, a brush OR your fingers
There's really no right or wrong way to apply foundation. It's just by preference. Some makeup artists prefer foundation brushes to apply foundation (I loved Trish McEvoy's foundation brush until I lost it).
A brush allows you to get into all the nooks, crannies and pores on your face. To do this, put a glob of foundation or tinted moisturizer on the back of your hand and dab in a foundation brush (I like MAC brushes), then apply to face. Other makeup artists believe using your fingers warms up the foundation, which helps it melt into your skin better. A sponge provides a great even coverage. It's up to you which you prefer.
Don't throw out wrong-toned foundations and concealers
Finding the right color foundation and concealer can be daunting, which is why I suggest you get professional help at Sephora or a makeup counter at a department store. This way you can try before you buy. But if you do have a few foundations and concealers that are just a bit off, do like the makeup artists and blend a couple of mismatched colors for the perfect one.
How to conceal dark under-eye circles
According to makeup artist Anthea King in InStyle magazine, you want to neutralize dark under-eye circles with peach- or yellow-tone concealers. Dab concealer on the inner corner of the eye by tapping it into place (never run a concealer on like you would sunscreen or foundation).
Don't be afraid of bronzers
Nothing warms the face more than a bronzer. Make sure to use a big makeup brush (again, putting in my plug for MAC brushes) and a light touch. Apply to all the spots where the sun hits: Forehead, cheeks and nose. For more "pop," blend a creamy blush on top.
Avoid "cake face"
Oily face? Make sure to blot oil before powdering or your skin will look cakey. Try a powder-free blotting sheet.
Set makeup with a primer
Primers are a relatively new "must-have" trend in the beauty world. They act like spackle: They moisturize, plump the skin and fill in any fine lines, pores and wrinkles so your foundation won't settle into them.
At first I was skeptical but then a makeup artist talked me into the beauty editor's All-Time Favorite foundation primer from Laura Mercier (see it here). Cha-ching! The primer is oil-free, which means it contains no oils, a bonus for my oily skin. I bought it and use it daily underneath my tinted moisturizer.
Natural oils are not bad
Speaking of oily skin, I'm no fan of the cakey, too-powdered look. Don't be afraid of your skin's natural oils. I prefer my face to have some sheen, which I think looks more "dewy" -- plus, keep in mind oily skin tends to develop fewer lines than dry skin.
If you have oily skin, apply an oil-free primer before your foundation to keep makeup in place (see my advice on primers above), then powder only the nose and chin. Keep a pack ofblotting tissues in your purse to blot excessive oils. Click below for more foundation, concealer and blush tips
